Santa Maria Maggiore

The church of Santa Maria Maggiore is one of the most ancient of Florence, if not the very first, to be dedicated to the Virgin. The structure itself, with three naves on square supporting columns each ending in a relatively spacious chapel, was probably built in the tenth century. Most of the current form of the interior dates from renovations in the 1200s. The exterior was considerably changed in the 1600s.

Above: “Berta”

On the north side of what Remains of the bell tower, along Via de’ Cerretani, you will find the marble bust of a woman, which dates from late antiquity, incorporated several stories up into the masonry. Among the legends invented to explain the statue’s mysterious presence here, two are particularly popular.

According to the first, there was once an old cavolaia, or cabbage-seller, named Berta (a medieval equivalent of “some old lady,” as in Paradiso 13.139). She somehow scraped up enough money to buy the church a bell, so the parishioners commemorated her generosity with this statuette. Indeed, they say her name was inscribed on the bell itself.

The more interesting story is related to Cecco d’Ascoli (1257-1327), a controversial figure who was famous for indulging in alchemy and necromancy. Because of his inquiries into black magic, he was condemned by Florence to be burned at the stake for heresy.

However, they say that Cecco had made a pact with the Devil and, as a result, would suffer no bodily pain provided that he first drank a sip of water. A woman called Berta discovered his evil agreement with Lucifer and was at the window as Cecco was being led to his death. When he asked for water to ease his suffering, Berta shouted to the crowd not give him even a single drop. In retaliation, Cecco used his magic to turn her to stone, trapping her there forever.

Inside the church, to the left of the altar, is a column that once belonged to Brunetto Latini’s sepulcher, which is explained in relation to the Dante plaque outside. The other interesting thing you should not miss in this area is the funereal inscription of Salvino D’Armati:

“Qui diace Salvino d’Armato degl’ Armati di Fir. inventor degl’occhiali. Dio gli perdoni la peccata. Anno D. MCCCXVII” (“Here lies Salvino, son of Armato degli Armati of Florence, inventor of eyeglasses. May God forgive his sins. A.D. 1317”). Unfortunately, even though there really were glasses in Tuscany during Dante’s lifetime, it was not Salvino D’Armato who invented them. The plaque is a fraud, likely placed here in the 1600s.